For the more ruthless gardener
Squashing / Cutting / Spearing
Squash by stamping on them or hitting them with whatever is convenient. Cut them up with a knife, trowel, scissors etc. Stab them with a pointed stick. Either leave where they are for birds to eat, or add to the compost etc.
Scalding / Drowning
Collect the slugs or snails and place in a bucket of hot water (soap or salt can be added if required). The water has to be hot or they will just crawl out again. This method is only usable if at home and hot water is available.
Salting
Collect and place in a container of salt. The salt dehydrates them. Avoid the temptation to sprinkle the salt on them while on the plant or soil. The salt concentration can build up in the soil and harm plants.
Burn them
Use a weed-burning torch to burn them. This is only convenient if they are not on or near the plants.
Beer / yeast
Leave containers of beer out overnight for the slugs. Bury the container level with the soil. Empty daily. If beer is not available or you prefer to drink your beer, try using yeast mixed with water instead.
Poisons
As with any poison, use only as directed, using all appropriate precautions. Be aware that by using poisonous baits, your actions may well affect other unintended victims higher up the food chain.
Slug and snail bait: Most slug bait's active constituent is metaldehyde (some may contain arsenic compounds such as calcium arsenate or copper arsenite, others may contain carbamates), which are fatal to dogs, and other animals, causing convulsions and a horrible death.
Here are some suggestions as to how to cut down the risk to other animals.
If you sprinkle the pellets on the soil, do so very lightly and sparingly. Do not leave piles that could invite inquisitive animals to eat it.
The Chemicals
Slug pellets are probably the most used forms of chemical slug killers. These contain either Metaldehyde or Methiocarb, which tends to be slightly more water resistant. Both need to be applied at regular intervals.
Aluminium Sulphate is the chemical preferred by organic gardeners, but needs to be reapplied after rainfall. Aluminium sulphate comes as a spray or powder. It kills by absorbing water from the slime producing organs. It is best applied on warm humid evenings when the slugs are more active. Effective if reapplied every few days. Relatively safe to wildlife & pets. Can damage young plant foliage - especially in dry weather. Relies on chance contact with slugs
Copper sulphate, Bordeaux mixture, alum. - these are older forms of slug control and are not used these days due to modern regulations.
Note: It is ILLEGAL in the UK to use any unlicensed pesticide including home made concoctions such as the ones listed below.
Below are some of the old traditional methods of slug control used by gardeners:-
"Skipper soup": Included weeds, lawn mowings, kitchen waste & plenty of orange peel, mixed 50:50 with water. This was fermented for 3 to 8 weeks until it bubbled & smelled. It was then watered generously on ground - not over plants and killed keel slugs in the ground immediately. Used mainly on potatoes in August.
Extract of fir tree seeds - strongly diluted.
"Doc Abrahams No 3 spray": 3oz garlic chopped, soaked 24 hours in 2 teaspoons liquid paraffin. 1 pint (500ml) water & ¾oz liquid soap added. Mixed well and filtered. Stored in a non-metallic container.
Dead slugs & snails left for a few days in water to ferment.
Dead slugs & snails ground up & diluted with water - potentised homeopathic spray - sprinkled over garden.
Extract of ragwort.
Thin fermented bread dough poured on the ground - kills when eaten.
Dried couch grass - lightly sprinkled - toxic to slugs.
© copyright 1999, P. A. Owen